The destruction of the palace on Kish Island

In the popular imagination, the word conjures up somewhere stable, contained, and understandable: maybe a little rocky outcropping covered with gulls, or a round disc of sand with a single palm tree. In reality, experts say, things are a bit more like that gravel bar: shifty, complicated, and full of gray areas. If you want to get to know islands, it helps to start by asking yourself what the heck they are.