This style of embroidery was seen as essential in order to counteract the influences of the counted thread technique known as Berlin wool work, which used brightly coloured Berlin wool. William Morris’s shop, Morris & Co., for example, sold finished embroideries as well as kits in the new style. In 1872, the Royal School of Art Needlework (later known as the Royal School of Needlework) was founded, which provided apprenticeship places in the traditional (Art Needlework) styles of embroidery. May Morris, an influential designer and embroiderer, was active in promoting this style of work and in helping to teach at the school. Art Needlework was introduced to North America at the 1876 Centennial Exposition held in Philadelphia (USA).
